Low viscosity hair conditioner compositions containing brassicyl valinate esylate

ABSTRACT

A hair conditioner composition comprising: a. an aqueous carrier; b. from about 0.25 wt % to about 8 wt % of BVE; and c. from about 0.25 wt % to about 8 wt % of fatty alcohol(s).

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to hair conditioner compositions, moreparticularly to low viscosity, leave-on/in hair conditioner compositionscomprising brassicyl valinate esylate bio-based cationic amino lipid.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

A variety of approaches have been developed to condition the hair. Theseapproaches range from post-shampoo application of hair conditioners suchas leave-on/in and rinse-off products, to hair conditioning shampooswhich attempt to both clean and condition the hair from a singleproduct.

Although some consumers prefer the ease and convenience of a shampoowhich includes conditioners, a substantial proportion of consumersprefer the more conventional conditioner formulations which are appliedto the hair as a separate step from shampooing, usually subsequent toshampooing. Conditioning formulations can be in the form of rinse-offproducts or leave-on products, and can be in the form of an emulsion,cream, gel, spray, and mousse. Such consumers who prefer theconventional conditioner formulations value the relatively higherconditioning effect, or convenience of changing the amount ofconditioning depending on the condition of hair or amount of hair.

There is growing demand from the public for a reduction or eliminationof certain ingredients, including certain surfactants and preservatives,in hair care products. Some consumers want the ingredients in their haircare products to meet natural credentialing standards, such as to be EWGVERIFIED™, to be free of any of the ingredients that Whole Foods® listsas unacceptable for body care, and to be categorized as “risk-free”(green dot) by the Yuka® Application. Hair care products may also meetthe COSMOS-standard (Jan. 1, 2019). The COSMOS-standard's ultimateobjective is to address the major issues essential to the environmentand welfare of humans on the planet.

However, modifying the materials used in hair care products cannegatively impact the product. For example, in conditioners, modifyingthe cationic surfactant can decrease conditioning performance andmodifying the preservative system can have a negative impact onmicrobiological safety requirements.

Therefore, there is a need for a leave-on/in conditioner compositionthat meets COSMOS and other natural credentialing standards, while stilldelivering the performance consumers expect and desire.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

A leave in hair conditioner composition comprising:

-   -   a. an aqueous carrier;    -   b. from about 0.25 wt % to about 8 wt % of BVE; and    -   c. from about 0.25 wt % to about 8 wt % of fatty alcohol(s);    -   wherein the molar ratio of BVE to total fatty alcohol is from        about 10:90 to about 50:50;    -   wherein the composition comprises a uniform Lβ gel network;    -   wherein the composition comprises d-spacing of from about 15 nm        to about 45 nm, as measured according to the d-spacing (Lβ-basal        spacing) of Lamella Gel Network Test Method;    -   wherein the composition has a viscosity from about 50 cps to        7000 cps; and    -   wherein the composition has a shear stress from about 20 Pa to        200 Pa @ 950 1/s.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing outand distinctly claiming the subject matter of the present invention, itis believed that the invention can be more readily understood from thefollowing description taken in connection with the accompanyingdrawings, in which:

FIG. 1 shows the chemical structure for Brassicyl Valinate Esylate(BVE).

FIG. 2 shows how the charts of FIGS. 2A and 2B should be viewed.

FIGS. 2A and 2B show the chemical structure comparison of cationicsurfactants and their natural credentials.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing outand distinctly claiming the invention, it is believed that the presentinvention will be better understood from the following description.

Hair conditioners are used to improve the feel, appearance, andmanageability of the hair. Hair conditioning compositions generallyinclude cationic surfactant(s), high melting point fatty compound(s)having a melting point of greater than 25° C. and in some examples from40 to 85° C., and an aqueous carrier. The ingredients in current hairconditioners, including the cationic surfactant and preservative system,are generally recognized as safe and effective.

However, there is growing demand from the public for a conditionerproduct and/or a preservative system that meets at least one, two,three, or all four of the following standards:

-   -   EWG VERIFIED™ (according to the criteria, as of Nov. 25, 2019),        which includes meeting the Environmental Working Group's (EWG)        criteria including avoiding EWG's ingredients of concern, having        fully transparent labeling, and using good manufacturing        practices, in addition to other criteria described in EWG's        Licensing Criteria: Personal Care Products (2019).    -   Does not contain any of ingredients that Whole Foods® lists as        unacceptable in its Premium Body Care Unacceptable Ingredients        (July 2018)    -   Categorized as “risk-free” (green dot) by the Yuka® Application        (March 2019)    -   COSMOS-standards (2019)

However, replacing traditional cationic surfactants, such asbehentrimonium chloride (BTMAC), which is restricted by theEnvironmental Working Group (EWG) for use in the cosmetic products as ofNov. 25, 2019 and/or stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (SAPDMA), which isan unacceptable ingredient listed on the Whole Foods® Premium Body CareUnacceptable Ingredients (July 2018), and preservatives with ingredientsthat meet the standards, listed above, while maintaining productperformance and antimicrobial effectiveness can be challenging. Most ofthe commonly used cationic surfactants in hair conditioners, such asquaternized ammonium salts consist of behentrimonium chloride (BTMAC)and behentrimonium methosulfate (BTMS), and tertiary amidoamines consistof stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (SAPDMA), Brassicamidopropyldimethylamine (BrassAPDMA) and behenamidopropyl dimethylamine (BAPDMA),are not COSMOS Natural or Ecocert Natural certified, as shown in FIG. 2.

Brassicyl valinate esylate (BVE), with the structure shown in FIG. 1,was identified as a cationic surfactant that can meet the standards,above. It is certified by COSMOS Natural or Ecocert Natural. Furtherdetails regarding BVE may be found in U.S. Pat. Nos. 8,287,844 and8,105,569, the substance of both which are incorporated herein byreference.

However, it can be hard to formulate effective conditioner compositionsthat contain BVE because BVE is much more hydrophobic than thetraditional cationic surfactants, as shown in the structure comparisonchart in FIG. 2. The BVE has a smaller hydrophilic head group (as shownby the shading) and steric hindrance of the isopropyl alkyl chainconnected to the head group that prevents the surfactant and fattyalcohol(s) packing during the melt stage to form a good gel network. Thegel network formed is more hydrophobic than the conventional ones, whichleads to a conditioner with poor wet conditioning performance, such asnot spreading on hair easily, not detangling wet hair well, notrinsing-off quickly, and not feeling clean after use.

This is a common drawback for using natural conditioners on the marketstoday. Most of the natural conditioners do not have a good gel network,especially comprising COSMOS listed ingredients, as shown in tablebelow.

Table 1 shows Herbal Essences® Honey & Vitamin B conditioner, whichcontains BTMAC, and Herbal Essences® Refresh Blue Ginger conditioner,which contains SAPDMA. Both have good Lβ gel networks with well-definedd-spacing.

Kerastase® Aura Botanica is a marketed natural conditioner, whichcontains a cationic surfactant Brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine(BrassAPDMA) which is not COSMOS certified. It has a large Lβ d-spacingof 43, and additional unincorporated material as detected by x-ray,meaning it is not a good gel network.

Weleda® Oat Replenishing conditioner, which does not contain a cationicsurfactant, and Avalon Organic® conditioner, which contains COSMOSnatural certified cationic surfactant Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate(BIE), Lβ gel networks were not detected by x-ray.

TABLE 1 Gel Network and Natural Credential of Current Products vs.Examples 1-36 Herbal Essences ® Herbal Honey & Essences ® Kerastase ®Weleda ® Avalon Invented Vitamin B Refresh Blue Aura Oat Organic ®Examples Conditioner Ginger Botanica Replenishing Tea Tree 1-36 PrimaryBTMAC SAPDMA BrassAPDMA BIE BYE Cationic Surfactant Is Primary No No NoN/A Yes Yes Cationic Surfactant COSMOS Natural Certified? Lβ gel networkWell formed Well formed additional Not detected Not Well formedunincorporated detected material detected d-spacing (nm) 24.2 34 43 n/dn/d 15-45

It was surprisingly found that Lβ gel network is well formed in theinventive conditioner compositions (see Table 5 to Table 10, below). Thepresence of Lβ gel network has been confirmed by wide-angle x-rayscattering (WAXS). The d-spacing (Lβ-basal spacing) of the lamella gelnetwork for the inventive conditioner compositions is from about 15 nmto about 45 nm, as measured by small-angle x-ray scattering (SAXS). Theconditioners provide good wet conditioning, clean feel, volume, andconsumer preferred rheology (sheer stress).

While not willing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the molarratio of BVE to fatty alcohol(s) and the molar ratio of short chain (C16or lower) fatty alcohol to long chain (C18 or higher) fatty alcohol, canresult in a conditioner composition gel network and good d-spacing from15 to 40 nm, which provides good conditioning performance including agood slippery feel and wet detangling.

Furthermore, the conditioners in Ex. 1 to Ex. 36 (Table 5 to Table 10),had a uniform gel network and are stable, meaning no phase separation.The Lβ gel network's thermal behaviors have been measured byDifferential Scanning Calorimetry Test Method.

The conditioner compositions of Ex. 1 to Ex. 36 may be used as aleave-on/in conditioners to both dry and/or wet hair without washing. Itis common that a moisturizing and nourishing leave-on/in conditioner mayadd weight to hair strands, causing the hair to be weighed down and losevolume, while a lighter leave-on/in conditioner may not provide enoughconditioning benefits. It was found that the hair conditionercompositions of Ex. 1 to Ex. 36, when used as leave-on/in conditioners,may not only provide good hair conditioning benefits, such as frizzcontrol and manageability, but may also give good hair volume and/orprovide a long-lasting clean feel, allowing ease of styling.

Also, the conditioner compositions Ex. 1 to Ex. 36 may be used as arinse-off conditioner. It is common that a conditioner that providesgood wet conditioning may weigh down hair, causing a loss of dry hairvolume and/or may cause the hair to feel dirty and/or oily quickly,which can result in consumers washing their hair more frequently. It wasfound that the hair conditioner compositions of Ex. 1 to Ex. 36 may notonly provide good hair conditioning but may also give good hair volumeand/or provide a long-lasting clean feel, allowing ease of styling.

Furthermore, Tables 5 to 10, below, include examples that have a sodiumbenzoate or potassium sorbate as a preservative, which meets thestandards for controlling microbial growth. However, the presentinventors discovered that if the conditioner composition had a smoothand creamy consistency, then the level of sodium benzoate or potassiumsorbate was too low to effectively inhibit the growth of microbes. Whenthe level of sodium benzoate or potassium sorbate was increased, theconditioner composition was too thin to easily apply with a user'shands, which can significantly impact product performance and the usageexperience. As shown in Table 5 and described in the accompanying text,a preservative system with sodium benzoate or potassium sorbate and aglycol, such as caprylyl glycol, or glyceryl esters, such as glycerylcaprylate/caprate and glyceryl caprylate (and) glyceryl undecylenate,can be more effective if the proper levels of each ingredient are added.

It was found that a preservative system that contains sodium benzoateand a second preservative composition selected from the group consistingof glycols, glyceryl esters, and combinations thereof contains all ofthe ingredients that have a EWG rating score of equal to or less than 3,can be EWG VERIFIED™, may not contain any of the ingredients that WholeFoods® Market lists as unacceptable, can be categorized as “risk-free”by the Yuka® Application, and can also meet the COSMOS-standard (Jan. 1,2019), while maintaining antimicrobial effectiveness providing goodconditioning performance.

The second preservative composition can contain a glycol and/or aglyceryl ester. Glycols and glyceryl esters both have two —OH groups onthe molecule. Non-limiting examples of glycols can include butyleneglycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylylglycol, decylene glycol (1,2-decanediol) and mixtures thereof. In oneexample, the glycol can be carpylyl glycol. Non-limiting examples ofglycerol esters can include glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate,glyceryl undecylenate and mixtures thereof.

The conditioner compositions containing this preservative system canhave a uniform, smooth, creamy appearance and have an effectivepreservative system where the level of microbes (both bacteria andfungi) is undetectable (>99.99% reduction) as determined by theBacterial and Fungal Microbial Susceptibility Test Methods, as describedherein.

The conditioner composition and/or preservative system can be free of orsubstantially free of certain preservatives, in particular preservativesthat do not meet one or more of the requirements, such asethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof,isothiazolinones including 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one and2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one (commercially available as Kathon™ CG fromDow®), benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, cyclohexylglycerin, and/orparabens.

In addition to meeting the standards for a cationic surfactant andpreservative system, some consumers prefer a conditioner compositionthat is free of or substantially free of the following: silicone,propellants, phthalates, parabens, isothiazolinones (e.g. Kathon™),phenoxyethanols, dyes, sulfates, and/or formaldehyde donors. Theconditioner composition can also be vegan.

The conditioner composition can be free of or substantially free ofquaternized ammonium salt such as behentrimonium chloride,behentrimonium methosulfate, cetrimonium chloride, and free ofamidoamine such as stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, Brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, and behenamidopropyl dimethylamine.

The conditioner composition can contain at least about 0.25 wt % BVE,alternatively at least about 0.3 wt % BVE, alternatively at least about0.35 wt % BVE. The conditioner composition can contain from about 0.25wt % to about 8 wt % BVE, alternatively from about 0.3 wt % to about 7wt %, alternatively from about 0.35 wt % to about 6 wt % BVE,alternatively from about 0.4 wt % to about 6 wt %.

The conditioner composition can contain from about 0.25 wt % to about 8wt % of one or more fatty alcohols. The total fatty alcohol amount maybe from about 0.3 wt % to about 7 wt % of the composition, alternativelyfrom about 0.35 wt % to about 7 wt % of the composition, or 0.4 wt % toabout 7 wt % of the composition.

The fatty alcohol may be selected from the group consisting of laurylalcohol (C12), tridecyl alcohol (C13), myristyl alcohol (C14),pentadecyl alcohol (C15), cetyl alcohol (C16), isocetyl alcohol (C16),palmitoleyl alcohol (C16), heptadecyl alcohol (C17), stearyl alcohol(C18), isostearyl alcohol (C18), oleyl alcohol (C18), nonadecyl alcohol(C19), arachidyl alcohol (C20), heneicosyl alcohol (C21), behenylalcohol (C22) erucyl alcohol (C22), lignoceryl alcohol (C24), cerylalcohol (C26), Brassica alcohol (C18-C22), cetostearyl alcohol(C16-C18), cetearyl alcohol (C16-C18), cetylstearyl alcohol (C16-C18)and combinations thereof.

The conditioner composition can have a molar ratio of BVE to total fattyalcohol from about 10:90 to about 50:50, alternatively from about 10:90to 45:55, or from about 14:86 to 40:60.

The conditioner compositions may contain a gel network comprising BVEand fatty alcohol(s). The composition may have a total gel network (GN)content, which is the sum of BVE and fatty alcohol(s) (FAOH), of fromabout 0.004 molar to about-0.05 molar, alternatively from about 0.0045molar, to about 0.04 molar, or alternatively from about 0.0045 to about0.05 molar.

The conditioner composition can have d-spacing of from about 15 nm toabout 45 nm, alternatively from 15 to 43, and alternatively from 18 to43. The d-spacing is determined by the d-spacing (Lβ-basal spacing) ofLamella Gel Network Test Method, described herein.

The conditioner composition can contain from about 0.1 wt % to about 2.5wt % preservative system, alternatively from about 0.15 wt % to about1.5 wt % preservative system, alternatively from about 0.2 wt % to about1.4 wt % preservative system, alternatively from 0.2 wt % to about 1.8wt % preservative system, and alternatively from about 0.3 wt % to about1.6 wt % preservative system.

The first preservative ingredient may be selected from the groupconsisting of sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, sodium salicylate,sodium chloride, sodium carbonate, sodium borate, sodium acetate, sodiumcitrate, potassium benzoate, potassium acetate, calcium gluconate,calcium chloride, and combinations thereof.

The conditioner composition can contain from about 0.05 wt % to about0.8 wt % of the first preservative.

The conditioner composition can contain from about 0.05 wt % to about0.8 wt % sodium benzoate, alternatively 0.1 wt % to about 0.5 wt %sodium benzoate, alternatively from about 0.2 wt % to about 0.4 wt %sodium benzoate or potassium sorbate. The conditioner composition cancontain sodium benzoate or potassium sorbate and can contain less than2% sodium benzoate or potassium sorbate, alternatively less than 1.5%sodium benzoate or potassium sorbate, alternatively less than 1% sodiumbenzoate or potassium sorbate, alternatively less than 0.8% sodiumbenzoate or potassium sorbate, alternatively less than 0.6 wt % sodiumbenzoate or potassium sorbate, and alternatively less than 0.5% sodiumbenzoate or potassium sorbate.

The conditioner composition can contain from about 0.2 wt % to about 2.5wt % of a second preservative composition, alternatively from about 0.3wt % to about 2 wt %, alternatively from about 0.4 wt % to about 1.5 wt%, alternatively from about 0.4 wt % to about 1.3 wt %, alternativelyfrom about 0.3 wt % to about 1.2 wt %, alternatively from about 0.3 wt %to about 1.1 wt %, and alternatively from about 0.35 wt % to about 1.1wt %. If the conditioner composition contains too much glycol and/orglyceryl esters the gel network structure may be destroyed, and theconditioner will not have consumer acceptable rheology and/orperformance.

The second preservative ingredient may be a glyceryl ester selected fromthe group consisting of glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate, glycerylundecylenate and mixtures thereof, or a glycol selected from the groupconsisting of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol,1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, decylene glycol, and mixtures thereof,and combinations thereof.

The leave on conditioner composition can have viscosity from about 50cps to about 7000 cps, alternatively from about 50 cps to about 6800cps, alternatively from 100 cps 6500 cps. The viscosity can bedetermined using the Cone/Plate Viscosity Measurement, describedhereafter.

The conditioner composition can have a shear stress from about 20 Pa toabout 200 Pa, alternatively from about 25 Pa to about 180 Pa,alternatively from 30 Pa to 160 Pa. The shear stress can be determinedusing the Shear Stress Test Method, described hereafter.

The conditioner composition can have a pH of less than 5.5.Alternatively, the conditioner composition can have a pH from about 2.5to about 5.5, alternatively from about 3.0 to about 5.0. The pH can bedetermined using the pH Test Method, described hereafter.

As used herein, the articles including “a” and “an” when used in aclaim, are understood to mean one or more of what is claimed ordescribed.

As used herein, “comprising” means that other steps and otheringredients which do not affect the end result can be added. This termencompasses the terms “consisting of” and “consisting essentially of.”

As used herein, the terms “include,” “includes,” and “including,” aremeant to be non-limiting and are understood to mean “comprise,”“comprises,” and “comprising,” respectively.

As used herein, the term “free of” means that 0% of an ingredient wasintentionally added to the conditioner composition, or the conditionercomposition comprises 0% of an ingredient by total weight of thecomposition, thus no detectable amount of the stated ingredient.

The term “substantially free of” as used herein means less than 0.5%,less than 0.3%, less than 0.1%, less than 0.05%, less than 0.01%, orless than an immaterial amount of a stated ingredient by total weight ofthe composition.

As used herein, “mixtures” is meant to include a simple combination ofmaterials and any compounds that may result from their combination.

All percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total weight of thecompositions of the present invention, unless otherwise specified. Allsuch weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on theactive level and, therefore, do not include carriers or by-products thatmay be included in commercially available materials.

Unless otherwise noted, all component or composition levels are inreference to the active portion of that component or composition, andare exclusive of impurities, for example, residual solvents orby-products, which may be present in commercially available sources ofsuch components or compositions.

It should be understood that every maximum numerical limitation giventhroughout this specification includes every lower numerical limitation,as if such lower numerical limitations were expressly written herein.Every minimum numerical limitation given throughout this specificationwill include every higher numerical limitation, as if such highernumerical limitations were expressly written herein. Every numericalrange given throughout this specification will include every narrowernumerical range that falls within such broader numerical range, as ifsuch narrower numerical ranges were all expressly written herein.

Cationic Surfactant

The compositions of the present invention can comprise a cationicsurfactant. The cationic surfactant can be included in the compositionat a level of from about 0.0.05 wt %, alternatively from about 0.1 wt %,alternatively from about 0.2 wt %, alternatively from about 0.3 wt %,alternatively from about 0.4 wt %, and to about 8 wt %, alternatively toabout 7 wt %, alternatively to about 6.5 wt %, alternatively to about 6wt % by weight of the composition, in view of providing the benefits ofthe present invention.

The surfactant can be water-insoluble. In the present invention,“water-insoluble surfactants” means that the surfactants have asolubility in water at 25° C. of alternatively below 0.5 g/100 g(excluding 0.5 g/100 g) water, alternatively 0.3 g/100 g water or less.

Cationic surfactant can be one cationic surfactant or a mixture of twoor more cationic surfactants. Alternatively, the cationic surfactant isselected from: a mono-long alkyl amine; a di-long alkyl quaternizedammonium salt; a mono-long alkyl cationic neutralized amino acid esters;a combination of a mono-long alkyl amine and a di-long alkyl quaternizedammonium salt; and a combination of a mono-long alkyl amine and amono-long alkyl cationic neutralized amino acid esters.

In some examples, the conditioner composition can be substantially freeof or free of cationic surfactants that have a quaternized ammoniumsalt.

Mono-Long Alkyl Amine

Mono-long alkyl amine can include those having one long alkyl chain ofalternatively from 19 to 30 carbon atoms, alternatively from 19 to 24carbon atoms, alternatively from 20 to 24 carbon atoms, alternativelyfrom 20 to 22 alkyl group. Mono-long alkyl amines can include mono-longalkyl amidoamines Primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines can beused.

Tertiary amido amines having an alkyl group of from about 19 to about 22carbons. Exemplary tertiary amido amines include:behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine,behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine,brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldiethylamine,brassicamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidoethyldimethylamine. Amines inthe present invention are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,275,055,Nachtigal, et al.

In some examples, the conditioner composition can be substantially freeof or free of stearamidopropyldimethylamine,stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine,stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine,palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine,palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine,arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine,arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and/or diethylaminoethylstearamide.

These amines are used in combination with acids such as □-glutamic acid,lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid,fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, □-glutamic hydrochloride,maleic acid, and mixtures thereof; alternatively lactic acid, citricacid, at a molar ratio of the amine to the acid of from about 1:0.3 toabout 1:2, alternatively from about 1:0.4 to about 1:1. The conditionercomposition can contain from about 0.25 wt % to about 6 wt % acid,alternatively from about 0.4 wt % to about 5 wt % acid, from about 0.5wt % to about 4 wt % acid, and alternatively from about 0.6 wt % toabout 3 wt % acid.

In some examples, the conditioner composition can be free of mono longalkyl quaternized ammonium salts.

Di-Long Alkyl Quaternized Ammonium Salts

When used, di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts are alternativelycombined with a mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt and/ormono-long alkyl amine salt, at the weight ratio of from 1:1 to 1:5,alternatively from 1:1.2 to 1:5, alternatively from 1:1.5 to 1:4, inview of stability in rheology and conditioning benefits.

Di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts can have two long alkyl chainsof from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, alternatively from 16 to 24 carbon atoms,alternatively from 18 to 22 carbon atoms. Such di-long alkyl quaternizedammonium salts can have the formula (I):

wherein two of R⁷¹, R⁷², R⁷³ and R⁷⁴ are selected from an aliphaticgroup of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, alternatively from 16 to 24 carbonatoms, alternatively from 18 to 22 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy,polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl grouphaving up to about 30 carbon atoms; the remainder of R⁷¹, R⁷², R⁷³ andR⁷⁴ are independently selected from an aliphatic group of from 1 toabout 8 carbon atoms, alternatively from 1 to 3 carbon atoms or anaromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl oralkylaryl group having up to about 8 carbon atoms; and X⁻ is asalt-forming anion selected from the group consisting of halides such aschloride and bromide, C1-C4 alkyl sulfate such as methosulfate andethosulfate, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic groups can contain, inaddition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groupssuch as amino groups. The longer chain aliphatic groups, e.g., those ofabout 16 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.Alternatively, two of R⁷¹, R⁷², R⁷³ and R⁷⁴ are selected from an alkylgroup of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, alternatively from 16 to 24 carbonatoms, alternatively from 18 to 22 carbon atoms; and the remainder ofR⁷¹, R⁷², R⁷³ and R⁷⁴ are independently selected from CH₃, C₂H₅, C₂H₄OH,CH₂C₆H₅, and mixtures thereof.

Di-long alkyl cationic surfactants can include, for example, dialkyl(14-18) dimethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow alkyl dimethyl ammoniumchloride, dihydrogenated tallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride,distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, and dicetyl dimethyl ammoniumchloride.

High Melting Point Fatty Compound

The composition of the present invention comprises a high melting pointfatty compound. The high melting point fatty compound can be included inthe composition at a level of from about 0.25 wt %, alternatively fromabout 0.3 wt %, alternatively from about 0.35 wt %, alternatively fromabout 0.4 wt %, even alternatively from about 0.45 wt %, and to about 8wt %, alternatively to about 7.5 wt %, alternatively to about 7 wt %,alternatively to about 6.5 wt %, alternatively to about 6 wt % by weightof the composition, in view of providing the benefits of the presentinvention.

The high melting point fatty compound can have a melting point of 25° C.or higher, alternatively 40° C. or higher, alternatively 45° C. orhigher, alternatively 47° C. or higher, alternatively 49° C. or higher,in view of stability of the emulsion especially the gel network.Alternatively, such melting point is up to about 90° C., alternativelyup to about 80° C., alternatively up to about 75° C., even alternativelyup to about 71° C., in view of easier manufacturing and easieremulsification. In the present invention, the high melting point fattycompound can be used as a single compound or as a blend or mixture of atleast two high melting point fatty compounds. When used as such blend ormixture, the above melting point means the melting point of the blend ormixture.

The high melting point fatty compound can be selected from the groupconsisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.Further, it is understood by the artisan that, depending on the numberand position of double bonds, and length and position of the branches,certain compounds having certain required carbon atoms may have amelting point of less than the above preferred in the present invention.Such compounds of low melting point are not intended to be included inthis section. Nonlimiting examples of the high melting point compoundsare found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, FifthEdition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition,1992.

Among a variety of high melting point fatty compounds, fatty alcoholsare alternatively used in the composition of the present invention. Thefatty alcohols can have from about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms,alternatively from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fattyalcohols are saturated and can be straight or branched chain alcohols.

Fatty alcohols can include, for example, cetyl alcohol (having a meltingpoint of about 56° C.), stearyl alcohol (having a melting point of about58-59° C.), behenyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 71° C.),and mixtures thereof. These compounds are known to have the abovemelting point. However, they often have lower melting points whensupplied, since such supplied products are often mixtures of fattyalcohols having alkyl chain length distribution in which the main alkylchain is cetyl, stearyl, Brassica or behenyl group.

The fatty alcohol may be selected from the group consisting of laurylalcohol (C12), tridecyl alcohol (C13), myristyl alcohol (C14),pentadecyl alcohol (C15), cetyl alcohol (C16), isocetyl alcohol (C16),palmitoleyl alcohol (C16), heptadecyl alcohol (C17), stearyl alcohol(C18), isostearyl alcohol (C18), oleyl alcohol (C18), nonadecyl alcohol(C19), arachidyl alcohol (C20), heneicosyl alcohol (C21), behenylalcohol (C22) erucyl alcohol (C22), lignoceryl alcohol (C24), cerylalcohol (C26), Brassica alcohol (C18-C22), cetostearyl alcohol(C16-C18), cetearyl alcohol (C16-C18), cetylstearyl alcohol (C16-C18)and combinations thereof.

The fatty alcohol can be a mixture of cetyl alcohol (C16), stearylalcohol (C18), behenyl alcohol (C22) and Brassica alcohol (C18-C22). Thefirst fatty alcohol may be cetyl alcohol, and the second alcohol may bestearyl alcohol (C18), behenyl alcohol (C22) and Brassica alcohol(C18-C22).

Rheology Modifier

The composition of the present invention may comprise from 0 wt % to 1.5wt %, from 0.05 to 1.3 wt %, from 0.1 to 1.2 wt %, or from 0.1 to 1 wt %of a polymer as a rheology modifier to stabilize the composition.

The polymer may be a gum(s) selected from the group consisting ofSclerotium gum, xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, tragacanth gum,acacia gum, agar gum, algin gum, gellan gum, carob gum, karaya gumbiosacharide gum, calcium carrageenan, potassium carrageenan, sodiumcarrageenan, potassium alginate, ammonium alginate, calcium alginate andany combination thereof.

The polymer in the composition may be Sclerotium gum.

Non-limiting examples of suitable rehology modifiers include watersoluble polymers. Examples of water soluble polymers include, but arenot limited to (1) vegetable based polymers such as gum Arabic,tragacanth gum, galactan, guar gum, carob gum, karaya gum, carrageenan,pectin, agar, quince seed, algal colloid, starch (rice, corn, potato, orwheat), and glycyrrhizinic acid; (2) microorganism-based polymers suchas xanthan gum, dextran, succinoglucan, and pullulan; and (3)animal-based polymers such as collagen, casein, albumin, and gelatin.

Examples of semi-synthetic water-soluble polymers include (1)starch-based polymers such as carboxymethyl starch andmethylhydroxypropyl starch; (2) cellulose-based polymers such asmethylcellulose, nitrocellulose, ethylcellulose,methylhydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, sodium cellulosesulfate, hydroxypropylcellulose, sodium carboxymethylcellulose (CMC),crystalline cellulose, and cellulose powder; and (3) alginate-basedpolymers such as sodium alginate and propylene glycol alginate. Examplesof synthetic water-soluble polymers include (1) vinyl-based polymerssuch as polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl methyl ether-based polymer,polyvinylpyrrolidone, and carboxyvinyl polymer (CARBOPOL 940, CARBOPOL941; (2) polyoxyethylene-based polymers such as polyethylene glycol20,000, polyethylene glycol 6,000, and polyethylene glycol 4,000; (3)copolymer-based polymers such as a copolymer of polyoxyethylene andpolyoxypropylene, and PEG/PPG methyl ether; (4) acryl-based polymerssuch as poly(sodium acrylate), poly(ethyl acrylate), polyacrylamide,polyethylene imines, and cationic polymers. The water-swellable clayminerals are nonionic water-soluble polymers and correspond to one typeof colloid-containing aluminum silicate having a triple layer structure.More particular, as examples thereof, mention may be made of bentonite,montmorillonite, beidellite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, aluminummagnesium silicate, and silicic anhydride.

Aqueous Carrier

The composition of the present invention can include an aqueous carrier.The level and species of the carrier can be selected according to thecompatibility with other components, and other desired characteristic ofthe product.

The carrier can include water and water solutions of lower alkylalcohols. The lower alkyl alcohols can be monohydric alcohols having 1to 6 carbons, alternatively ethanol and isopropanol. Alternatively, theaqueous carrier is substantially water. Deionized water is alternativelyused. Water from natural sources including mineral cations can also beused, depending on the desired characteristic of the product. Generally,the compositions of the present invention comprise from about 40% toabout 99%, alternatively from about 50% to about 98%, and alternativelyfrom about 70% to about 97%, and alternatively from about 70% to about95% water.

Gel Network

The gel network composition can be included in conditioner compositionsto provide conditioning benefits, including improved wet feel of thehair after rinsing the conditioner. As used herein, the term “gelnetwork” refers to a lamellar or vesicular solid crystalline phase whichcomprises at least one high melting point fatty compound, such as afatty alcohol, as specified below, at least one surfactant, inparticular a cationic surfactant, as specified below, and water or othersuitable solvents. The lamellar or vesicular phase comprises bi-layersmade up of a first layer comprising the high melting point fattycompound and the surfactant and alternating with a second layercomprising the water or other suitable solvent. Gel networks, generally,are further described by G. M. Eccleston, “Functions of MixedEmulsifiers and Emulsifying Waxes in Dermatological Lotions and Creams”,Colloids and Surfaces A: Physiochem. and Eng. Aspects 123-124 (1997)169-182; and by G. M Eccleston, “The Microstructure of SemisolidCreams”, Pharmacy International, Vol. 7, 63-70 (1986).

A gel network can be formed by the cationic surfactant, the high meltingpoint fatty compound, and an aqueous carrier. The gel network issuitable for providing various conditioning benefits, such as slipperyfeel during the application to wet hair and softness and moisturizedfeel on dry hair.

Alternatively, when the gel network is formed, the cationic surfactantand the high melting point fatty compound are contained at a level suchthat the weight ratio of the cationic surfactant to the high meltingpoint fatty compound is in the range of, from about 5:1 to about 1:20,alternatively from about 3:1 to about 1:15, alternatively from about 2:1to about 1:12, alternatively from about 1:1 to about 1:10, alternativelyfrom about 1:1 to about 1:9, in view of providing improved wetconditioning benefits.

To accurately predict cationic surfactants and fatty alcohols packingand forming gel network, molecular level of calculation is performed.The molar number of a cationic surfactant in the composition iscalculated by the weight % of the cationic surfactant divided by itsmolecular weight. The molar number of a fatty alcohol in the compositionis calculated similarly, which is the weight % of the fatty alcoholdivided by the molecular weight of the fatty alcohol.

The total molar number of gel network content is the sum of molar numberof cationic surfactants and fatty alcohols in the composition.

The molar ratio of cationic surfactants to fatty alcohols is the ratioof the total molar number of the cationic surfactants in the compositionto the total molar number of the fatty alcohols in the composition.

Alternatively, when the gel network is formed, the cationic surfactantand the high melting point fatty compound are contained at a level suchthat the molar ratio of the cationic surfactant to the high meltingpoint fatty compound is in the range of, from about 5:1 to about 1:20,alternatively from about 3:1 to about 1:15, alternatively from about 2:1to about 1:12, alternatively from about 1.5:1 to about 1:10,alternatively from about 1.2:1 to about 1:9, alternatively from about1:1 to about 1:9, in view of providing improved wet conditioningbenefits.

Alternatively, especially when the gel network is formed, thecomposition of the present invention is substantially free of anionicsurfactants, in view of stability of the gel network. In the presentinvention, “the composition being substantially free of anionicsurfactants” means that: the composition is free of anionic surfactants;or, if the composition contains anionic surfactants, the level of suchanionic surfactants is very low. In the present invention, a total levelof such anionic surfactants, if included, alternatively 1% or less,alternatively 0.5% or less, alternatively 0.1% or less by weight of thecomposition. Most alternatively, the total level of such anionicsurfactants is 0% by weight of the composition.

Silicone Compound

The compositions of the present invention may further contain a siliconecompound. It is believed that the silicone compound can providesmoothness and softness on dry hair. The silicone compounds herein canbe used at levels by weight of the composition of preferably from about0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, stillmore preferably from about 1% to about 8%.

Preferably, the silicone compounds have an average particle size of fromabout −0.01 microns to about 50 microns, in the composition.

The silicone compounds useful herein, as a single compound, as a blendor mixture of at least two silicone compounds, or as a blend or mixtureof at least one silicone compound and at least one solvent, have aviscosity of preferably from about 1 to about 2,000,000 mPa-s, morepreferably from about 100 to about 2,000,000 mPa-s at 25° C.

The viscosity can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometeras set forth in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, Jul. 20,1970. Suitable silicone fluids include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers, aminosubstituted silicones, quaternized silicones, and mixtures thereof.Other nonvolatile silicone compounds having conditioning properties canalso be used.

Preferred polyalkyl siloxanes include, for example,polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane, and polymethylphenylsiloxane.Polydimethylsiloxane, which is also known as dimethicone, is especiallypreferred.

The above polyalkylsiloxanes are available, for example, as a mixturewith silicone compounds having a lower viscosity. Such mixtures have aviscosity of preferably from about 1,000 mPa-s to about 100,000 mPa-s,more preferably from about 5,000 mPa-s to about 50,000 mPa-s. Suchmixtures preferably comprise: (i) a first silicone having a viscosity offrom about 100,000 mPa-s to about 30,000,000 mPa-s at 25° C., preferablyfrom about 100,000 mPa-s to about 20,000,000 mPa-s; and (ii) a secondsilicone having a viscosity of from about 5 mPa-s to about 10,000 mPa-sat 25° C., preferably from about 5 mPa-s to about 5,000 mPa-s. Suchmixtures useful herein include, for example, a blend of dimethiconehaving a viscosity of 18,000,000 mPa-s and dimethicone having aviscosity of 200 mPa-s available from GE Toshiba, and a blend ofdimethicone having a viscosity of 18,000,000 mPa-s andcyclopentasiloxane available from GE Toshiba.

The silicone compounds useful herein also include a silicone gum. Theterm “silicone gum”, as used herein, means a polyorganosiloxane materialhaving a viscosity at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 1,000,000centistokes. It is recognized that the silicone gums described hereincan also have some overlap with the above-disclosed silicone compounds.This overlap is not intended as a limitation on any of these materials.The “silicone gums” will typically have a mass molecular weight inexcess of about 200,000, generally between about 200,000 and about1,000,000. Specific examples include polydimethylsiloxane,poly(dimethylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer,poly(dimethylsiloxane diphenylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymerand mixtures thereof.

The silicone gums are available, for example, as a mixture with siliconecompounds having a lower viscosity. Such mixtures useful herein include,for example, Gum/Cyclomethicone blend available from Shin-Etsu.

Silicone compounds useful herein also include amino substitutedmaterials. Preferred aminosilicones include, for example, those whichconform to the general formula (I):(R₁)_(a)G₃-a-Si—(—OSiG₂)_(n)-(—OSiG_(b)(R₁)_(2_b))_(m)—O-SiG₃-a(i)awherein G is hydrogen, phenyl, hydroxy, or C₁-C₈ alkyl, preferablymethyl; a is 0 or an integer having a value from 1 to 3, preferably 1; bis 0, 1 or 2, preferably 1; n is a number from 0 to 1,999; m is aninteger from 0 to 1,999; the sum of n and m is a number from 1 to 2,000;a and m are not both 0; Ri is a monovalent radical conforming to thegeneral formula CqH_(2q)L, wherein q is an integer having a value from 2to 8 and L is selected from the following groups: —N(R₂)CH₂—CH₂—N(R₂)₂;—N(R₂)₂; —N(R₂)₃A⁻; —N(R₂)CH₂—CH₂-NR₂H₂A⁻; wherein R₂ is hydrogen,phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated hydrocarbon radical, preferably an alkylradical from about Ci to about C₂o; A is a halide ion.

Highly preferred amino silicones are those corresponding to formula (I)wherein m=0, a=1, q=3, G=methyl, n is preferably from about 1500 toabout 1700, more preferably about 1600; and L is —N(CH₃)₂ or —NH₂, morepreferably —NH₂. Another highly preferred amino silicones are thosecorresponding to formula (I) wherein m=0, a=1, q=3, G=methyl, n ispreferably from about 400 to about 600, more preferably about 500; and Lis —N(CH₃)₂ or —NH₂, more preferably —NH₂. Such highly preferred aminosilicones can be called as terminal aminosilicones, as one or both endsof the silicone chain are terminated by nitrogen containing group. Theabove aminosilicones, when incorporated into the composition, can bemixed with solvent having a lower viscosity. Such solvents include, forexample, polar or non-polar, volatile or non-volatile oils. Such oilsinclude, for example, silicone oils, hydrocarbons, and esters. Amongsuch a variety of solvents, preferred are those selected from the groupconsisting of non-polar, volatile hydrocarbons, volatile cyclicsilicones, non-volatile linear silicones, and mixtures thereof. Thenon-volatile linear silicones useful herein are those having a viscosityof from about 1 to about 20,000 centistokes, preferably from about 20 toabout 10,000 centistokes at 25° C. Among the preferred solvents, highlypreferred are non-polar, volatile hydrocarbons, especially non-polar,volatile isoparaffins, in view of reducing the viscosity of theaminosilicones and providing improved hair conditioning benefits such asreduced friction on dry hair. Such mixtures have a viscosity ofpreferably from about 1,000 mPa-s to about 100,000 mPa-s, morepreferably from about 5,000 mPa-s to about 50,000 mPa-s.

Other suitable alkylamino substituted silicone compounds include thosehaving alkylamino substitutions as pendant groups of a siliconebackbone. Highly preferred are those known as “amodimethicone”.Commercially available amodimethicones useful herein include, forexample, BY16-872 available from Dow Corning.

The silicone compounds may further be incorporated in the presentcomposition in the form of an emulsion, wherein the emulsion is made mymechanical mixing, or in the stage of synthesis through emulsionpolymerization, with or without the aid of a surfactant selected fromanionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, andmixtures thereof. Commercially available silicone emulsions usefulherein include, for example, Belsil ADM 8301E, Belsil ADM 6300Eavailable from Wacker, Silsoft 253 available from Momentive

Silicone Polymer Containing Quaternary Groups

Silicone compounds useful herein include, for example, a SiliconePolymer Containing Quaternary Groups comprising terminal ester groups,having a viscosity up to 100,000 mPa-s and a D block length of greaterthan 200 D units. Without being bound by theory, this low viscositysilicone polymer provides improved conditioning benefits such as smoothfeel, reduced friction, and prevention of hair damage, while eliminatingthe need for a silicone blend.

Structurally, the silicone polymer is a polyorganosiloxane compoundcomprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups, at least one siliconeblock comprising greater than 200 siloxane units, at least onepolyalkylene oxide structural unit, and at least one terminal estergroup. In one or more embodiments, the silicone block may comprisebetween 300 to 500 siloxane units. The silicone polymer is present in anamount of from about 0.05% to about 15%, preferably from about 0.1% toabout 10%, more preferably from about 0.15% to about 5%, and even morepreferably from about 0.2% to about 4% by weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the polyorganosiloxane compounds have thegeneral formulas (la) and (lb):

M-Y—[—(N⁺R₂-T-N⁺R₂)—Y—]_(m)—[—(NR²-A-E-A′-NR²)—Y—]_(k)-M  (la)

M-Y—[—(N⁺R₂-T-N⁺R₂)—Y—]_(m)—[—(NR²2-A-E-A′-N⁺R¾—Y—]_(k)-M   (lb)wherein:

m is >0, preferred 0.01 to 100, more preferred 0.1 to 100, even morepreferred 1 to 100, specifically 1 to 50, more specifically 1 to 20,even more specifically 1 to 10,k is 0 or an average value of from >0 to 50, or preferably from 1 to 20,or even more preferably from 1 to 10,M represents a terminal group, comprising terminal ester groups selectedfrom

—OC(0)-Z —OS(0)₂-Z —OS(02)0-Z —OP(0)(0-Z)OH —OP(0)(0-Z)₂

wherein Z is selected from monovalent organic residues having up to 40carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more hetero atoms.

A and A′ each are independently from each other selected from a singlebond or a divalent organic group having up to 10 carbon atoms and one ormore hetero atoms, and

E is a polyalkylene oxide group of the general formula:

—[CH₂CH₂0]_(q)—[CH₂CH(CH₃)0]_(r)—[CH₂CH(C₂H₅)₀]—

wherein q=0 to 200, r=0 to 200, s=0 to 200, and q+r+s=1 to 600.R² is selected from hydrogen or R,R is selected from monovalent organic groups having up to 22 carbonatoms and optionally one or more heteroatoms, and wherein the freevalencies at the nitrogen atoms are bound to carbon atoms,Y is a group of the formula:

—K—S—K— and -A-E-A′- or -A′-E-A-,

wherein R₁=Ci-C22-alkyl, Ci-C22-fluoralkyl or aryl; n=200 to 1000, andthese can be identical or different if several S Groups are present inthe polyorganosiloxane compound.

K is a bivalent or trivalent straight chain, cyclic and/or branchedC2-C40 hydrocarbon residue which is optionally interrupted by —O—, —NH—,trivalent N, —NR¹—, —C(O)—, —C(S)—, and optionally substituted with —OH,wherein R¹ is defined as above,T is selected from a divalent organic group having up to 20 carbon atomsand one or more hetero atoms.

The residues K may be identical or different from each other. In the—K—S—K— moiety, the residue K is bound to the silicon atom of theresidue S via a C—Si-bond.

Due to the possible presence of amine groups (—(NR²-A-E-A′— NR²)—) inthe polyorganosiloxane compounds, they may have protonated ammoniumgroups, resulting from the protonation of such amine groups with organicor inorganic acids. Such compounds are sometimes referred to as acidaddition salts of the polyorganosiloxane compounds.

In a preferred embodiment the molar ratio of the quaternary ammoniumgroups b) and the terminal ester groups c) is less than 100:20, evenmore preferred is less than 100:30 and is most preferred less than100:50. The ratio can be determined by ¹³C-NMR.

In a further embodiment, the polyorganosiloxane composition maycomprise:

A) at least one polyorganosiloxane compound, comprising a) at least onepolyorganosiloxane group, b) at least one quaternary ammonium group, c)at least one terminal ester group, and d) at least one polyalkyleneoxide group (as defined before),B) at least one polyorganosiloxane compound, comprising at least oneterminal ester group, different from compound A).

In the definition of component A) it can be referred to the descriptionof the polyorganosiloxane compounds of the invention. Thepolyorganosiloxane compound B) differs from the polyorganosiloxanecompound A) preferably in that it does not comprise quaternary ammoniumgroups. Preferred polyorganosiloxane compounds B) result from thereaction of monofunctional organic acids, in particular carboxylicacids, and polyorganosiloxane containing bisepoxides. In thepolyorganosiloxane compositions the weight ratio of compound A) tocompound B) is preferably less than 90:10. Or in other words, thecontent of component B) is at least 10 weight percent. In a furtherpreferred embodiment of the polyorganosiloxane compositions in compoundA) the molar ratio of the quaternary ammonium groups b) and the terminalester groups c) is less than 100:10, even more preferred is less than100:15 and is most preferred less than 100:20.

The silicone polymer has a viscosity at 20° C. and a shear rate of 0.10(plate-plate system, plate diameter 40 mm, gap width 0.5 mm) of lessthan 100,000 mPa^(»)s (100 Pa^(»)s). In further embodiments, theviscosities of the neat silicone polymers may range from 500 to 100,000mPa^(»)s, or preferably from 500 to 70,000 mPa^(»)s, or more preferablyfrom 500 to 50,000 mPa^(»)s, or even more preferably from 500 to 20,000mPa^(»)s. In further embodiments, the viscosities of the neat polymersmay range from 500 to 10,000 mPa^(»)s, or preferably 500 to 5000mPa^(»)s determined at 20° C. and a shear rate of 0.1 s⁻¹.

In addition to the above listed silicone polymers, the followingpreferred compositions are provided below. For example, in thepolyalkylene oxide group E of the general formula:

—[CH₂CH₂0]_(q)—[CH₂CH(CH₃)0]_(r)—[CH₂CH(C₂H₅)0]-

wherein the q, r, and s indices may be defined as follows:q=0 to 200, or preferably from 0 to 100, or more preferably from 0 to50, or even more preferably from 0 to 20,r=0 to 200, or preferably from 0 to 100, or more preferably from 0 to50, or even more preferably from 0 to 20,s=0 to 200, or preferably from 0 to 100, or more preferably from 0 to50, or even more preferably from 0 to 20,and q+r+s=1 to 600, or preferably from 1 to 100, or more preferably from1 to 50, or even more preferably from 1 to 40.

For polyorganosiloxane structural units with the general formula S:

R¹⁼Ci-C₂₂-alkyl, Ci-C₂₂-fluoralkyl or aryl; n=from 200 to 1000, orpreferably from 300 to 500, K (in the group —K—S—K—) is preferably abivalent or trivalent straight chain, cyclical or branched C2-C2₀hydrocarbon residue which is optionally interrupted by —O—, —NH—,trivalent N, —NR¹—, —C(O)—C(S)—, and optionally substituted with —OH.In specific embodiments, R¹ is Ci-Ci₈ alkyl, Ci-Ci₈ fluoroalkyl andaryl. Furthermore, R¹ is preferably Ci-Ci₈ alkyl, Ci-C₆ fluoroalkyl andaryl. Furthermore, R¹ is more preferably Ci-C₆ alkyl, Ci-C₆ fluoroalkyl,even more preferably C1-C4 fluoroalkyl, and phenyl. Most preferably, R¹is methyl, ethyl, trifluoropropyl and phenyl.

As used herein, the term “C1-C22 alkyl” means that the aliphatichydrocarbon groups possess from 1 to 22 carbon atoms which can bestraight chain or branched. Methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, pentyl,hexyl, heptyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, isopropyl, neopentyl and1,2,3-trimethyl hexyl moieties serve as examples.

Further as used herein, the term “C1-C22 fluoroalkyl” means aliphatichydrocarbon compounds with 1 to 22 carbon atoms which can be straightchain or branched and are substituted with at least one fluorine atom.Monofluormethyl, monofluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluorethyl, perfluoroethyl,1,1,1-trifluoropropyl, 1,2,2-trifluorobutyl are suitable examples.

Moreover, the term “aryl” means unsubstituted or phenyl substituted onceor several times with OH, F, CI, CF₃, Ci-C₆ alkyl, Ci-C₆ alkoxy, C₃-C7cycloalkyl, C2-C6 alkenyl or phenyl. Aryl may also mean naphthyl.

For the embodiments of the polyorganosiloxanes, the positive chargesresulting from the ammonium group(s), are neutralized with inorganicanions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, sulfate, or organicanions, like carboxylates deriving from C1-C₃₀ carboxylic acids, forexample acetate, propionate, octanoate, especially from Cio-Ci₈carboxylic acids, for example decanoate, dodecanoate, tetradecanoate,hexadecanoate, octadecanoate and oleate, alkylpolyethercarboxylate,alkylsulphonate, arylsulphonate, alkylarylsulphonate, alkylsulphate,alkylpolyethersulphate, phosphates derived from phosphoric acid monoalkyl/aryl ester and phosphoric acid dialkyl/aryl ester. The propertiesof the polyorganosiloxane compounds can be, inter alia, modified basedupon the selection of acids used.

The quaternary ammonium groups are usually generated by reacting thedi-tertiary amines with an alkylating agents, selected from inparticular di-epoxides (sometimes referred to also as bis-epoxides) inthe presence of mono carboxylic acids and difunctional dihalogen alkylcompounds.

In a preferred embodiment the polyorganosiloxane compounds are of thegeneral formulas (la) and (lb):

M-Y—[—(N⁺R₂-T-N⁺R₂)—Y—]_(m)—[—(NR²-A-E-A′-NR²)—Y—]_(k)-M  (la)

M-Y—[—(N⁺R₂-T-N⁺R₂)—Y—]_(m)—[—(NR²2-A-E-A′-N⁺R¾—Y—]_(k)-M  (lb)

M (lb) wherein each group is as defined above; however, the repeatingunits are in a statistical arrangement (i.e., not a block-wisearrangement).

In a further preferred embodiment the polyorganosiloxane compounds maybe also of the general formulas (Ila) or (lib):

M-Y—[—(N⁺R₂—Y—]_(m)—[—(NR²-A-E-A′-NR²)—Y—]_(k)-M  (Ila)

M-Y—[—(N⁺R₂—Y—]_(m)—[—(N⁺R² ₂-A-E-A′-N⁺R² ₂—Y—]_(k)-M  (lib)

wherein each group is as defined above. Also in such formula therepeating units are usually in a statistical arrangement (i.e not ablock-wise arrangement).wherein, as defined above, M is

—OC(0)-Z, —OS(0)₂-Z —OS(0₂)0-Z —OP(0)(0-Z)OH —OP(0)(0-Z)₂

Z is a straight chain, cyclic or branched saturated or unsaturatedCi-C₂o, or preferably C₂ to Ci8, or even more preferably a hydrocarbonradical, which can be interrupted by one or more —O—, or —C(O)— andsubstituted with —OH. In a specific embodiment, M is —OC(0)-Z resultingfrom normal carboxylic acids in particular with more than 10 carbonatoms like for example dodecanoic acid.

In a further embodiment, the molar ratio of thepolyorganosiloxane-containing repeating group —K—S—K— and thepolyalkylene repeating group -A-E-A′- or -A′-E-A- is between 100:1 and1:100, or preferably between 20:1 and 1:20, or more preferably between10:1 and 1:10.

In the group —(N⁺R₂-T-N⁺R₂)—, R may represent a monovalent straightchain, cyclic or branched Ci-C₂o hydrocarbon radical, which can beinterrupted by one or more —O—, —C(O)— and can be substituted by —OH, Tmay represent a divalent straight-chain, cyclic, or branched Ci-C₂ohydrocarbon radical, which can be interrupted by —O—, —C(O)— and can besubstituted by hydroxyl.

The above described polyorganosiloxane compounds comprising quaternaryammonium functions and ester functions may also contain: 1) individualmolecules which contain quaternary ammonium functions and no esterfunctions; 2) molecules which contain quaternary ammonium functions andester functions; and 3) molecules which contain ester functions and noquaternary ammonium functions. While not limited to structure, the abovedescribed polyorganosiloxane compounds comprising quaternary ammoniumfunctions and ester functions are to be understood as mixtures ofmolecules comprising a certain averaged amount and ratio of bothmoieties.

Various monofunctional organic acids may be utilized to yield theesters. Exemplary embodiments include C1-C30 carboxylic acids, forexample C2, C3, Cg acids, Cio-Ci₈ carboxylic acids, for example Ci₂,C14, Ci₆ acids, saturated, unsaturated and hydroxyl functionalized Ci₈acids, alkylpolyethercarboxylic acids, alkylsulphonic acids,arylsulphonic acids, alkylarylsulphonic acids, alkylsulphuric acids,alkylpolyethersulphuric acids, phosphoric acid mono alkyl/aryl estersand phosphoric acid dialkyl/aryl esters.

Additional Components

The composition of the present invention may include other additionalcomponents, which may be selected by the artisan according to thedesired characteristics of the final product and which are suitable forrendering the composition more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptableor to provide them with additional usage benefits. Such other additionalcomponents generally are used individually at levels of from about0.001% to about 10%, alternatively up to about 5% by weight of thecomposition.

A wide variety of other additional components can be formulated into thepresent compositions. These include:

a) other conditioning agents such as aloe vera gel; aloe barbadensisleaf juice; ecklonia radiata extract; natural oils and waxes such asshea butter, safflower oil, cocoa butter, orange peel wax, olive oil,macadamia seed oil, Oenothera biennis oil, Crambe abyssinica see oil,argon oil, camelina oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, Argania spinosakernel oil, grape see oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, meadowfoam seed oil,neem oil, linseed oil, castor oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, beeswax,sunflower wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, bayberry waxand soy wax; essential oils such as lime peel oil, lavender oil,peppermint oil, cedarwood oil, tea tree oil, ylang-ylang oil andcoensage oil which can be used in fragrance; hydrolyzed collagen withtradename Peptein 2000 available from Hormel, vitamin E with tradenameEmix-d available from Eisai, panthenol available from Roche, panthenylethyl ether available from Roche, hydrolyzed keratin, proteins, plantextracts, and nutrients; pH adjusting agents, such as citric acid,sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodiumcarbonate; salts, in general, such as potassium acetate and sodiumchloride; coloring agents, such as any of the FD&C or D&C dyes;perfumes; and sequestering agents, such as disodium ethylenediaminetetra-acetate; and ultraviolet and infrared screening and absorbingagents such as octyl salicylate; antioxidants include: rosemary,tocopherol, vitamin E, vitamin A and tea extracts; amino acids includehistidine, 1-arginine and others.

b) Anti-Dandruff Actives,

The compositions of the present invention may also contain ananti-dandruff agent. Suitable, non-limiting examples of anti-dandruffactives include: antimicrobial actives, pyridinethione salts, azoles,selenium sulfide, particulate sulfur, keratolytic acid, salicylic acid,octopirox (piroctone olamine), coal tar, and combinations thereof. Inone aspect, the anti-dandruff actives typically are pyridinethionesalts. Such anti-dandruff particulate should be physically andchemically compatible with the essential components of the composition,and should not otherwise unduly impair product stability, aesthetics orperformance.

Pyridinethione anti-dandruff agents are described, for example, in U.S.Pat. Nos. 2,809,971; 3,236,733; 3,753,196; 3,761,418; 4,345,080;4,323,683; 4,379,753; and 4,470,982. It is contemplated that when ZPT isused as the anti-dandruff particulate in the compositions herein, thatthe growth or re-growth of hair may be stimulated or regulated, or both,or that hair loss may be reduced or inhibited, or that hair may appearthicker or fuller.

c) Humectants

The compositions of the present invention may contain a humectant. Thehumectants herein are selected from the group consisting of polyhydricalcohols, water soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers, and mixturesthereof. The humectants, when used herein, are typically used at levelsof from about 0.1% to about 20%, or even from about 0.5% to about 5%.

d) Water Miscible Solvents

The hair care composition described herein can comprise from about 0.1%to about 15%, alternatively from about 0.2% to about 10%, andalternatively from about 0.3% to about 5% of a water miscible solvent,by weight of the hair care composition. Alternatively, the hair carecomposition described herein can comprise from about 0.5% to about 10%,alternatively from about 0.75% to about 7.5%, alternatively from about1% to about 5%, and alternatively from about 1.25% to about 3% of awater miscible solvent, by weight of the hair care composition.

The pressurized hair care composition described herein can comprise fromabout 0.1% to about 14%, alternatively from about 0.2% to about 9%, andalternatively from about 0.3% to about 5% of a water miscible solvent,by weight of the pressurized hair care composition. Alternatively, thepressurized hair care composition described herein can comprise fromabout 0.5% to about 9%, alternatively from about 0.75% to about 7%,alternatively from about 1% to about 5%, and alternatively from about1.25% to about 3% of a water miscible solvent, by weight of thepressurized hair care composition.

Non-limiting examples of suitable water miscible solvents includepolyols, copolyols, polycarboxylic acids, polyesters and alcohols.

Additional examples of useful polyols include, but are not limited to,glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, butyleneglycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, cyclohexane dimethanol,hexane diol, polyethylene glycol (200-600), sugar alcohols such assorbitol, manitol, lactitol and other mono- and polyhydric low molecularweight alcohols (e.g., C₂-C₈ alcohols); mono di- and oligo-saccharidessuch as fructose, glucose, sucrose, maltose, lactose, and high fructosecorn syrup solids and ascorbic acid.

Examples of polycarboxylic acids include, but are not limited to citricacid, maleic acid, succinic acid, polyacrylic acid, and polymaleic acid.

Examples of suitable polyesters include, but are not limited to,glycerol triacetate, acetylated-monoglyceride, diethyl phthalate,triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyl triethyl citrate, acetyltributyl citrate.

Other suitable water miscible solvents include, but are not limited to,alkyl and allyl phthalates; napthalates; lactates (e.g., sodium,ammonium and potassium salts); sorbeth-30; urea; lactic acid; sodiumpyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA); sodium hyraluronate or hyaluronicacid; soluble collagen; modified protein; monosodium L-glutamate; alpha& beta hydroxyl acids such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid,maleic acid and salicylic acid; glyceryl polymethacrylate; polymericplasticizers such as polyquaterniums; proteins and amino acids such asglutamic acid, aspartic acid, and lysine; hydrogen starch hydrolysates;other low molecular weight esters (e.g., esters of C2-C₁₀ alcohols andacids); and any other water soluble plasticizer known to one skilled inthe art of the foods and plastics industries; and mixtures thereof.

The water miscible solvents may be selected from the group consisting ofglycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. EP0283165 B1 discloses other suitable water miscible solvents, includingglycerol derivatives such as propoxylated glycerol. The water misciblesolvent may be selected from glycerin.

Product Forms

The compositions of the present invention can be in the form ofrinse-off products or leave-on/in products and can be formulated in awide variety of product forms, including but not limited to creams,gels, emulsions, mousses, and sprays.

The conditioning composition of the present invention is especiallysuitable for leave-on/in hair conditioner. Such compositions are used byapplying to both dry hair and wet hair.

The conditioning composition of the present invention may be suitablefor rinse-off hair conditioner. Such compositions are alternatively usedby following steps:

-   (i) after shampooing hair, applying to the hair an effective amount    of the conditioning compositions for conditioning the hair; and-   (ii) then rinsing the hair.

Test Methods Bacterial Microbial Susceptibility Testing Method

Bacterial microbial susceptibility testing is used to assess theanti-bacterial effectiveness of the preservation system in cosmeticrinse-off conditioner.

A bacterial pool (mixture in equal volumes) of challenge organisms usedin the test is comprised of standardized solutions of the bacterialstrains Escherichia coli (ATCC #8739), Staphylococcus aureus (ATCC#6538), Pseudomonas aeruginosa (ATCC #9027), Burkholderia cepacia (ATCC#25416), as well as Klebsiella pneumoniae, Enterobacter gergoviae andSerratia marcescens strains isolated from cosmetic products. Thebacterial pool is prepared to have a concentration of approximately 6-8log cfu/ml. To start the test, 0.1 ml of the bacterial pool is addedinto 10.0 g of a test conditioner. The test conditioner is thenincubated for 2 days at 20-25° C. After incubation, a 1.0 g aliquot ofproduct is neutralized using Modified Letheen Broth containing 1.5%polysorbate 80 (commercially available as Tween® 80 from Croda™) and 1%Lecithin to aid in microbial recovery/enumeration. Then, multiplediluted concentrations of this sample are transferred into petri dishescontaining Modified Letheen Agar with 1.5% Tween® 80, and the agarplates are incubated at least 2 days at 30-35° C. Bacterial colonyforming units (cfus) are then enumerated, and a bacterial log reductionfrom the starting log cfu/g challenge level is reported.

A 1 log cfu/g reduction equates to ˜a 90% bacterial reduction. A 2 logcfu/g reduction equates to ˜a 99% bacterial reduction. A 3 log cfu/greduction equates to ˜a 99.9% bacterial reduction. A 4 log cfu/greduction equates to ˜a 99.99% bacterial reduction. Greater log cfu/greduction values indicate greater antimicrobial robustness from thepreservation system.

Fungal Microbial Susceptibility Testing Method:

Fungal microbial susceptibility testing is used to assess theanti-fungal effectiveness of the preservation system in cosmeticrinse-off conditioner.

Standardized ATCC strains of the yeast Candida albicans (ATCC #10231)and mold Aspergillus brasiliensis (frm. niger) (ATCC #16404) are mixedin 1:1 (v:v) ratio, and this fungal pool is used as inoculum in thetest. The concentration of the fungal pool is approximately 6-8 logcfu/ml. To start the test, 0.1 ml of the fungal pool is added into 10.0g of a testing conditioner. After the inoculated sample is incubated for2 days at 20-25° C., a 1.0 g aliquot of product is neutralized usingModified Letheen Broth containing 1.5% Tween® 80 and 1% Lecithin to aidin microbial recovery/enumeration. Then, multiple diluted concentrationsof this sample are transferred into petri dishes containing ModifiedLetheen Agar with 1.5% Tween 80, and the agar plates are incubated forat least 5 days at 20-25° C., at which time fungal colony forming units(cfus) are then enumerated, and a fungal log reduction from the startinglog cfu/g challenge level is calculated.

A 1 log cfu/g reduction equates to ˜a 90% fungal reduction. A 2 logcfu/g reduction equates to ˜a 99% fungal reduction. A 3 log cfu/greduction equates to ˜a 99.9% fungal reduction. A 4 log cfu/g reductionequates to ˜a 99.99% fungal reduction. Greater log cfu/g reductionvalues indicate greater anti-fungal robustness from the preservationsystem.

Differential Scanning Calorimetry

The melt transition behavior and temperature for the gel network may beobtained using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) according to thefollowing method. Utilizing a TA Instruments Q2000 DSC, approximately 15mg of the gel network pre-mix or the final conditioner compositioncontaining the gel network is placed into a Tzero aluminum hermetic DSCpan. The sample, along with an empty reference pan is placed into theinstrument. The samples are analyzed using the followingconditions/temperature program: Nitrogen Purge at a rate of 50.0 mL/min;Equilibrate @ 20.00° C.; Modulate +/−1.00° C./min every 60 seconds;until an isothermal is reach for 5.00 min; Ramp the temperature at arate of 2.00° C./min to 90.00° C. The resulting DSC data is analyzedusing TA Instruments Universal Analysis Software.

The use of DSC to measure the melt transition behavior and temperaturefor gel networks is further described by T. de Vringer et al., Colloidand Polymer Science, vol. 265, 448-457 (1987); and H. M. Ribeiro et al.,Intl. J. of Cosmetic Science, vol. 26, 47-59 (2004).

pH Method

First, calibrate the Mettler Toledo Seven Compact pH meter. Do this byturning on the pH meter and waiting for 30 seconds. Then take theelectrode out of the storage solution, rinse the electrode withdistilled water, and carefully wipe the electrode with a scientificcleaning wipe, such as a Kimwipe®. Submerse the electrode in the pH 4buffer and press the calibrate button. Wait until the pH icon stopsflashing and press the calibrate button a second time. Rinse theelectrode with distilled water and carefully wipe the electrode with ascientific cleaning wipe. Then submerse the electrode into the pH 7buffer and press the calibrate button a second time. Wait until the pHicon stops flashing and press the calibrate button a third time. Rinsethe electrode with distilled water and carefully wipe the electrode witha scientific cleaning wipe. Then submerse the electrode into the pH 10buffer and press the calibrate button a third time. Wait until the pHicon stops flashing and press the measure button. Rinse the electrodewith distilled water and carefully wipe with a scientific cleaning wipe.

Submerse the electrode into the testing sample and press the readbutton. Wait until the pH icon stops flashing and record the value.

Shear Stress

Shear stress is measured by shear rate sweep condition with a rheometeravailable from TA Instruments with a mode name of ARG2. Geometry has 40mm diameter, 2° C. cone angle, and gap of 49 μm. Shear rate islogarithmically increased from 0 to 1200/s for 1 min, and temperature iskept at 26.7° C. Share stress at a high shear rate of 950/s is measuredand defined above.

Cone/Plate Viscosity Measurement

The viscosities of the examples are measured by a Cone/Plate ControlledStress Brookfield Rheometer R/S Plus, by Brookfield EngineeringLaboratories, Stoughton, Mass. The cone used (Spindle C-75-1) has adiameter of 75 mm and 1° angle. The liquid viscosity is determined usinga steady state flow experiment at constant shear rate of 2 s⁻¹ and attemperature of 26.5° C. The sample size is 2.5 ml and the totalmeasurement reading time is 3 minutes.

X-Ray Diffraction Method

SAXS (Small Angle X-ray Scattering) is used to confirm the presence of amulti-lamellar phase, and WAXS (Wide Angle X-ray Scattering) is used todifferentiate between L□ (liquid) and Lβ (solid) crystalline structureswere employed to verify the presence of the characteristic dispersed gelnetwork phase of the personal conditioning compositions

d-Spacing (Lβ-Basal Spacing) of Lamella Gel Network:

Small-angle x-ray scattering (“SAXS”) as used to resolve periodicstructures in mesophases is essentially an x-ray diffraction technique.It is used in conjunction with conventional wide-angle x-ray scattering(“WAXS”) to characterize aggregate structures such as micelles, gelnetworks, lamella, hexagonal and cubic liquid crystals. The differentmesophases that show periodic structures can be characterized by therelative positions (d-spacing) of their reflections as derived from theBragg equation (d=λ/2 Sin θ) where d represents the interplanar spacing,λ the radiation wavelength and θ the scattering (diffraction) angle.

The one dimensional lamella gel network phase is characterized by theratio of the interplanar spacings d₁/d₁, d₁/d₂, d₁/d₃, d₁/d₄, d₁/d₅having the values 1:2:3:4:5 etc. in the SAXS region (long-range order)and one or two invariant reflection(s) in the WAXS region (short-range)centered around 3.5 and 4.5 Å over a broad halo background. Othermesophases (e.g. hexagonal or cubic) will have characteristicallydifferent d-spacing ratios.

The SAXS data was collected with a Bruker NanoSTAR small-angle x-rayscattering instrument. The micro-focus Cu x-ray tube was operated at 50kV, 0.60 mA with 550 um ScanTex Pinholes. The sample to detectordistance was 107.39 cm and the detector a Vantec2K 2-dimensional areadetector. Samples were sealed in capillaries and analyzed under vacuumwith an analysis time of 600 s.

The value of d-spacing ((Lβ-basal spacing) of lamella gel networkreported here is obtained with the 1^(st) order of SAXS reflection whichis the d₁ spacing.

WAXS Confirmation (in Combination with SAXS) of Presence of Lβ GelNetwork

Wide-angle data (WAXS) was collected on a Stoe STADI-MP diffractometer.The generator was operated at 40 kV/40 mA, powering a copper anodelong-fine-focus Cu x-ray tube. The diffractometer incorporates anincident-beam curved germanium-crystal monochromator, standardincident-beam slit system, and Mythen PSD detector. Data were collectedin transmission mode over a range of 0° to 50° 2θ with a step size of 3°2θ and 15 seconds per step.

WAXS Pattern with reflection near 4.2 Å which, in combination with thelamellar reflections seen in the SAXS, is indicative of the presence ofLβ gel network.

Hair Tress Evaluation Method:

Using a 1 mL syringe, apply 1 mL of leave-in-conditioner to 4 g 8″General Population hair tress. When applying product, start by placingthe product midway through the hair tress and downwards towards the endof the tress. Once the 1 mL of product is has been placed on the hairtress, massage the product evenly throughout the hair tress. Onceproduct is evenly applied and no white residue is visible, allow hairtress to air dry completely for over 24 hours. Then, the hair tresseswere evaluated by a visual hair volume assessment and a dry combingassessment.

Visual Hair Volume Evaluation:

Once the hair tresses completely dried, conduct a visual check toevaluate the volume of hair tresses. Rate each hair tress on a scale of1 to 10 on how much volume is perceived (10 is the most volume, 1 is theleast volume).

Dry Combing Evaluation:

Once the hair tresses completely dried, use a fine-tooth comb to combthrough each hair tress twice—once from the front of the tress and oncefrom the back of the tress. Assess how much force is required for thecomb to pass through the hair tress. Rate each hair tress on a scale of1 to 10 on how much force is perceived to comb through (10 is theeasiest, 1 is the hardest).

EXAMPLES

The following are non-limiting examples of the conditioner compositionsdescribed herein. It will be appreciated that other modifications of thepresent invention within the skill of those in the art can be undertakenwithout departing from the spirit and scope of this invention.

All parts, percentages, and ratios herein are by weight unless otherwisespecified. Some components may come from suppliers as dilute solutions.The amount stated reflects the weight percent of the added material,unless otherwise specified.

The examples in Table 2 to Table 10 were made as follows: BVE, fattyalcohols and oils/waxes were heated together as oil phase to 80° C.Sodium benzoate, glycerin, glyceryl esters and other water-solubleingredients were heated together with water as water phase to 80° C.Pour hot water phase into hot oil phase and continue mixing well. Next,the mixture was cooled. Then, perfumes were added when the temperaturewas below 45° C. The composition was cooled to room temperature to makethe conditioner composition.

Table 2 to Table 4 below, show Comparative Examples 1-13. Even thoughthese compositions contain an effective surfactant system that that isEWG VERIFIED™, do not contain any of the ingredients that Whole Foods®Market lists as unacceptable, are categorized as “risk-free” by theYuka® Application, and can also meet the COSMOS-standard (Jan. 1, 2019),they are either not stable, or not consumer preferred.

TABLE 2 Comparative Examples 1-3 Comp. Ex. 1 Comp. Ex. 2 Comp. Ex. 3Appearance Uniform Uniform Uniform Viscosity (cps) 4177 4065 4478 Sheerstress (Pa) @950 1/s 81 77 79 Lβ gel network not detected AminoSensyl wt% (added) 2.67 2.91 3.15 AminoSensyl HC wt % (added) Cetyl Alcohol (C16)wt % 0.57 0.51 0.45 (active) Stearyl Alcohol (C18) wt % 0.29 0.23 0.17(active) Glycerin wt % (active) 1 1 1 Sodium Benzoate wt % 0.25 0.250.25 (active) Glyceryl Caprylate wt % 1 1 1 (active) Glyceryl Stearatewt % 0.4 0.4 0.4 (active) Safflower Oil wt % (active) 2 2 2 SclerotiumGum wt % 0.5 0.5 0.5 (active) Perfume wt % (added) 0.25 0.25 0.25Distilled Water Q.S Q.S Q.S Adjust pH w Citric aicd, L-Arginine orCalcium Gluconate to pH = 3.0-5.5 Brassicyl Valinate Esylate 2.51 2.742.96 wt % (active) Brassica Alcohol (C18-C22) 0.16 0.17 0.19 wt %(active) Total GN content (Brassicyl 0.0088 0.0088 0.0088 ValinateEsylate + total FAOH molar) Molar ratio of Brassicyl 55 to 45 60 to 4065 to 35 Valinate Esylate to total FAOH Molar ratio of short chain 60 to40 60 to 40 60 to 40 FAOH (C16) to long chain FAOH (C18-C22)

In Comparative Examples 1-3, the molar ratio of BVE to fatty alcohol istoo high, meaning there is too much BVE. No Lβ gel network was detectedusing x-ray scattering method. The examples do not provide consumerdesired good wet conditioning feel. The inventive conditionercomposition can have a molar ratio of BVE to total fatty alcohol fromabout 10:90 to about 50:50.

TABLE 3 Comparative Examples 4-7 Comp. Comp. Comp. Comp. Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex.6 Ex. 7 Apparence Uniform Uniform Uniform Uniform Viscosity (cps) 28043019 3270 3737 Sheer stress (Pa) @950 1/s 61 59 55 55 Lβ gel networkd-spacing (nm) very weak, d-spacing extrapolated AminoSensyl wt %(added) 3.40 3.64 3.88 4.12 Cetyl Alcohol (C16) wt % (active) 0.38 0.320.25 0.13 Stearyl Alcohol (C18) wt % (active) 0.11 0.05 Glycerin wt %(active) 1 1 1 1 Sodium Benzoate wt % (active) 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25Glyceryl Caprylate wt % (active) 1 1 1 1 Glyceryl Stearate wt % (active)0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Safflower Oil wt % (active) 2 2 2 2 Sclerotium Gum wt %(active) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Perfume wt % (added) 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25Distilled Water Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.S Adjust pH w Citric aicd, L-Arginine orCalcium Gluconate to pH = 3.0-5.5 Brassicyl Valinate Esylate wt %(active) 3.19 3.42 3.65 3.88 Brassica Alcohol (C18-C22) wt % 0.20 0.220.23 0.25 (active) Total GN content (Brassicyl Valinate 0.0088 0.00880.0088 0.0088 Esylate + total FAOH molar) Molar ratio of BrassicylValinate 70 to 30 75 to 25 80 to 20 85 to 15 Esylate to total FAOH Molarratio of short chain FAOH (C16) 60 to 40 60 to 40 58 to 42 39 to 61 tolong chain FAOH (C18-C22)

In Comparative Examples 4-7, the molar ratio of BVE to fatty alcohol istoo high. Since there is an excess of BVE, the x-ray scattering signalis very weak and the d-spacing extrapolated, and no gel networks wereformed. The examples do not provide consumer desired good wetconditioning feel. The inventive conditioner composition can have amolar ratio of BVE to total fatty alcohol from about 10:90 to about50:50.

In Table 4 and Table 5 below, the Micro-Bacteria @ 2 days and theMicro-Fungi @ 2 days is determined by the Bacterial and Fungal MicrobialSusceptibility Test Methods, described herein. For the preservativesystem to be effective, the level of microbes (bacteria and fungi) needsto be undetectable, which means that there is a greater than 99.99%reduction in microbes at two days as determined by the Bacterial andFungal Microbial Susceptibility Test Methods.

TABLE 4 Comparative Examples 8 to 13 Comp. Ex. Comp. Ex. Comp. Ex. Comp.Ex. Comp. Ex. Comp. Ex. 8 9 10 11 12 13 Appearance Uniform UniformUniform Uniform Uniform Uniform Viscosity (cps) 1670 4250 Sheer stress(Pa) 51 54 @950 1/s Lβ gel network d- 40 39 spacing (nm) Micro-Bacteria@ ~90% Not Not Not Not Not 2 day reduction Detected Detected DetectedDetected Detected using using using using using current current currentcurrent current method method method method method (>99.99%) (>99.99%)(>99.99%) (>99.99%) (>99.99%) Micro-Fungui @ ~90% ~90% ~90% ~90% ~90%~90% 2 days reduction reduction reduction reduction reduction reductionAminoSensyl wt % 0.88 0.88 0.88 0.88 0.88 0.88 (added) Cetyl Alcohol(C16) 1.39 1.39 1.39 1.39 1.39 1.39 wt % (active) Stearyl Alcohol 0.930.93 0.93 0.93 0.93 0.93 (C18) wt % (active) Glycerin wt % 1 1 1 1 1 1(active) Sodium Benzoate 0.25 wt % (active) Potassium Sorbate 0.25 wt %(active) Glyceryl Caprylate 1 1 wt % (active) Glyceryl Caprylate 1 andGlyceryl Undecylenate wt % (active) Glyceryl Stearate 0.38 0.38 0.380.38 0.38 0.38 wt % (active) Safflower Oil wt % 2 2 2 2 2 0.5 (active)Sclerotium Gum 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 wt % (active) Perfume wt % 0.250.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 (added) Distilled Water Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.SAdjust pH w Citric aicd, L-Arginine or Calcium Gluconate to pH = 3.0-5.5Brassicyl Valinate 0.83 0.83 0.83 0.83 0.83 0.83 Esylate wt % (active)Brassica Alcohol 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 (C18-C22) wt % (active)Total GN content 0.0109 0.0109 0.0109 0.0109 0.0109 0.0109 (BrassicylValinate Esylate + total FAOH molar) Molar ratio of 15 to 85 15 to 85 15to 85 15 to 85 15 to 85 15 to 85 Brassicyl Valinate Esylate to totalFAOH Molar ratio of short 61 to 39 61 to 39 61 to 39 61 to 39 61 to 3961 to 39 chain FAOH (C16) to long chain FAOH (C18-C22)

Comparative examples 8 does not contain a preservative system at all,which does not provide enough microbe reduction at 2 days for bacteriaand fungi.

Comparative example 9 contains 0.25% potassium sorbate, example 10contains 0.25% sodium benzoate, example 11 contains 1 wt % of glycerylcaprylate (and) glyceryl undeylenate (glyceryl esters), and examples 12and 13 contain 1 wt % of glyceryl caprylate (a glyceryl ester), that is,they comprise only one preservative. These examples 9-13 have anundetectable level (>99.99% reduction) of bacteria at two days. However,they do not provide enough fungi reduction at two days, as theseexamples only have a ˜90% reduction.

TABLE 5 Examples 1-5 Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Apparence UniformUniform Uniform Uniform Uniform Viscosity (cps) 4663 4425 Sheer stress(Pa) @950 1/s 51 54 Lβ gel network d-spacing (nm) 27 26 Micro-Bacteria @2 day Not Detected using current method (>99.99%) Micro-Fungui @ 2 daysNot Detected using current method (>99.99%) AminoSensyl wt % (added)0.88 0.88 0.88 0.88 0.88 Cetyl Alcohol (C16) wt % (active) 1.39 1.391.39 1.39 1.39 Stearyl Alcohol (C18) wt % (active) 0.93 0.93 0.93 0.930.93 Glycerin wt % (active) 1 1 1 1 1 Sodium Benzoate wt % (active) 0.250.25 0.25 Potassium Sorbate wt % (active) 0.25 0.25 Glyceryl Caprylatewt % (active) 1 1 1 Glyceryl Caprylate and Glyceryl 1 1 Undecylenate wt% (active) Glyceryl Stearate wt % (active) 0.38 0.38 0.38 0.38 0.38Safflower Oil wt % (active) 2 2 2 2 0.5 Sclerotium Gum wt % (active) 0.50.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Perfume wt % (added) 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 DistilledWater Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.S Adjust pH w Citric aicd, L-Arginine or CalciumGluconate to pH = 3.0-5.5 Brassicyl Valinate Esylate wt % 0.83 0.83 0.830.83 0.83 (active) Brassica Alcohol (C18-C22) wt % 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.050.05 (active) Total GN content (Brassicyl 0.0109 0.0109 0.0109 0.01090.0109 Valinate Esylate + total FAOH molar) Molar ratio of BrassicylValinate 15 to 85 15 to 85 15 to 85 15 to 85 15 to 85 Esylate to totalFAOH Molar ratio of short chain FAOH 61 to 39 61 to 39 61 to 39 61 to 3961 to 39 (C16) to long chain FAOH (C18-C22)

In Table 5, example 1 contains 0.25 wt % of potassium sorbate and 1.0 wt% of glyceryl caprylate (and) glyceryl undeylenate, example 2 contains0.25 wt % of potassium sorbate and 1.0 wt % of glyceryl caprylate,example 3 contains 0.25 wt % of sodium benzoate and 1.0 wt % of glycerylcaprylate (and) glyceryl undeylenate, while examples 4 and 5 contain0.25 wt % of sodium benzoate and 1.0 wt % of glyceryl caprylate. All ofthe Examples in Table 5 have preservative systems that are effective(i.e. bacteria and fungi are not detectable (>99.99% reduction at 2days), and a uniform, creamy, and smooth appearance that is consumerpreferred.

All of the examples in Table 6 to Table 10 below, examples 6 to 36contain the same effective natural preservative system as examples 1 to5, which comprise 0.25 wt % sodium benzoate or potassium sorbate and 1.0wt % glyceryl esters. Examples 1 to 36 are inventive examples.

TABLE 6 Examples 6-11 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 Ex. 8 Ex. 9 Ex. 10 Ex. 11 AppearanceUniform Uniform Uniform Uniform Uniform Uniform Viscosity (cps) 39403676 4532 3722 3188 3139 Sheer stress (Pa) @950 1/s 51 49 54 52 50 60 GNd-spacing (nm) 26 26.8 25.8 26.6 25.2 27 AminoSensyl wt % (added) 0.640.81 0.97 1.13 0.85 1.30 AminoSensyl HC wt % (added) 1.08 Cetyl Alcohol(C16) wt % 0.66 0.62 0.57 0.52 0.26 0.47 (active) Stearyl Alcohol (C18)wt % 0.49 0.46 0.43 0.38 0.35 (active) Glycerin wt % (active) 1 1 1 1 51 Sodium Benzoate wt % (active) 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 GlycerylCaprylate wt % (active) 1 1 1 1 1 Glyceryl Caprylate and Glyceryl 1Undecylenate wt % (active) Glyceryl Stearate wt % (active) 0.4 0.4 0.40.4 0.4 Safflower Oil wt % (active) 2 2 2 2 2 2 Sclerotium Gum wt %(active) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Perfume wt % (added) 0.25 0.25 0.250.25 0.25 0.25 Distilled Water Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.S Adjust pH wCitric aicd, L-Arginine or Calcium Gluconate to pH = 3.0-5.5 BrassicylValinate Esylate 0.60 0.76 0.91 1.06 1.07 1.22 wt % (active) BrassicaAlcohol (C18-C22) 0.04 0.05 0.06 0.07 0.86 0.08 wt % (active) Total GNcontent (Brassicyl 0.0058 0.0059 0.0059 0.0058 0.0059 0.0059 ValinateEsylate + total FAOH molar) Molar ratio of Brassicyl Valinate 20 to 8025 to 75 30 to 70 35 to 65 35 to 65 40 to 60 Esylate to total FAOH Molarratio of short chain FAOH 58 to 42 58 to 42 57 to 43 57 to 43 28 to 7256 to 44 (C16) to long chain FAOH (C18-C22)

TABLE 7 Examples 6-11 Ex. 12 Ex. 13 Ex. 14 Ex. 15 Ex. 16 Ex. 17 Ex. 18Apparence Uniform Uniform Uniform Uniform Uniform Uniform UniformViscosity (cps) 4205 3997 5166 3836 3634 3779 3614 Sheer stress (Pa) 5449 59 67 72 79 76 @950 1/s GN d-spacing (nm) 25 26.2 25.8 25.4 23.8 2525 AminoSensyl wt % 0.49 0.73 0.97 1.46 1.70 2.18 2.43 (added) CetylAlcohol (C16) 1.15 1.08 0.99 0.89 0.83 0.70 0.64 wt % (active) StearylAlcohol 0.83 0.77 0.74 0.59 0.53 0.41 0.35 (C18) wt % (active) Glycerinwt % 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 (active) Sodium Benzoate 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.250.25 0.25 wt % (active) Glyceryl Caprylate 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 wt % (active)Glyceryl Stearate 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 wt % (active) SafflowerOil wt % 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 (active) Sclerotium Gum 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.50.5 wt % (active) Perfume wt % 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25(added) Distilled Water Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.S Adjust pH w Citricaicd, L-Arginine or Calcium Gluconate to pH = 3.0-5.5 Brassicyl Valinate0.46 0.68 0.91 1.37 1.60 2.05 2.28 Esylate wt % (active) BrassicaAlcohol 0.03 0.04 0.06 0.09 0.10 0.13 0.15 (C18-C22) wt % (active) TotalGN content 0.0088 0.0088 0.0088 0.0088 0.0088 0.0088 0.0088 (BrassicylValinate Esylate + total FAOH molar) Molar ratio of 10 to 90 15 to 85 20to 80 30 to 70 35 to 65 45 to 55 50 to 50 Brassicyl Valinate Esylate tototal FAOH Molar ratio of short 60 to 40 60 to 40 58 to 42 60 to 40 60to 40 60 to 40 60 to 40 chain FAOH (C16) to long chain FAOH (C18-C22)

TABLE 8 Examples 19-24 Ex. 19 Ex. 20 Ex. 21 Ex. 22 Ex. 23 Ex. 24Apparence Uniform Uniform Uniform Uniform Uniform Uniform Viscosity(cps) 3503 2710 4230 4336 3930 3659 Sheer stress (Pa) @950 1/s 89 66 7086 76 77 Lβ gel network d-spacing (nm) 26.2 24.2 25.4 23.5 24.8AminoSensyl wt % (added) 1.70 1.27 1.94 1.73 1.45 1.94 AminoSensyl HC wt% (added) 1.61 0.92 1.84 Cetyl Alcohol (C16) wt % 1.30 0.39 1.19 0.680.14 0.77 (active) Stearyl Alcohol (C18) wt % 0.47 (active) Glycerin wt% (active) 1 1 1 1 1 1 Sodium Benzoate wt % (active) 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.250.25 0.25 Glyceryl Caprylate wt % (active) 1 1 Glyceryl Caprylate andGlyceryl 1 1 1 1 Undecylenate wt % (active) Glyceryl Stearate wt %(active) 0.4 0.4 Safflower Oil wt % (active) 0.5 0.5 0.5 2 0.5 2Sclerotium Gum wt % (active) 0.3 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Perfume wt %(added) 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Distilled Water Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.SQ.S Q.S Adjust pH w Citric aicd, L-Arginine or Calcium Gluconate to pH =3.0-5.5 Brassicyl Valinate Esylate 1.60 1.60 1.82 1.86 1.82 1.82 wt %(active) Brassica Alcohol(C18-C22) 0.10 1.28 0.12 0.79 1.47 0.12 wt %(active) Total GN content (Brassicyl 0.0088 0.0088 0.0088 0.0089 0.00880.0088 Valinate Esylate + total FAOH molar) Molar ratio of Brassicyl 35to 65 35 to 65 40 to 60 40 to 60 40 to 60 40 to 60 Valinate Esylate tototal FAOH Molar ratio of short chain 94 to 6 28 to 72 93 to 7 52 to 4811 to 89 60 to 40 FAOH (C16) to long chain FAOH (C18-C22)

TABLE 9 Examples 25-30 Ex. 25 Ex. 26 Ex. 27 Ex. 28 Ex. 29 Ex. 30Apparence Uniform Uniform Uniform Uniform Uniform Uniform Viscosity(cps) 3873 2498 3864 4048 6400 3603 Sheer stress (Pa) @950 1/s 57 46.481.3 85.7 153.3 126 GN d-spacing (nm) 26.4 AminoSensyl wt % (added) 1.941.01 1.62 2.02 2.43 2.83 Cetyl Alcohol (C16) wt % 0.77 0.77 1.28 1.591.91 2.23 (active) Stearyl Alcohol (C18) wt % 0.47 0.57 0.86 1.08 1.301.51 (active) Glycerin wt % (active) 1 1 1 1 1 1 Sodium Benzoate wt %(active) 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Glyceryl Caprylate wt % 1 1 1 1 11 (active) Glyceryl Stearate wt % (active) 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4Safflower Oil wt % (active) 2 2 2 2 2 2 Sclerotium Gum wt % (active) 0.50.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Perfume wt % (added) 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25Distilled Water Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.S Adjust pH w Citric aicd,L-Arginine or Calcium Gluconate to pH = 3.0-5.5 Brassicyl ValinateEsylate 0.95 1.52 1.90 2.28 2.66 3.04 wt % (active) BrassicaAlcohol(C18-C22) 0.06 0.10 0.12 0.15 0.17 0.19 wt % (active) Total GNcontent (Brassicyl 0.0073 0.0117 0.0146 0.0176 0.0205 0.0234 ValinateEsylate + total FAOH molar) Molar ratio of Brassicyl 25 to 75 25 to 7525 to 75 25 to 75 25 to 75 25 to 75 Valinate Esylate to total FAOH Molarratio of short chain 58 to 42 60 to 40 60 to 40 60 to 40 60 to 40 60 to40 FAOH (C16) to long chain FAOH (C18-C22)

TABLE 10 Examples 31-36 Ex. 31 Ex. 32 Ex. 33 Ex. 34 Ex. 35 Ex. 36Apparence Uniform Uniform Uniform Uniform Uniform Uniform Viscosity(cps) 2411 1355 1945 1977 1188 1901 Sheer stress (Pa) @950 1/s 54 36.350.9 53.8 38 71.2 Lβ gel network d-spacing (nm) 27.4 AminoSensyl wt %(added) 1.21 1.21 0.89 1.21 1.29 1.62 AminoSensyl HC wt % (added) 1.20Cetyl Alcohol (C16) wt % 0.96 0.96 0.85 1.20 1.36 1.70 (active) StearylAlcohol (C18) wt % 0.65 0.65 0.38 0.94 1.18 (active) Glycerin wt %(active) 1 1 1 1 1 1 Sodium Benzoate wt % (active) 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.250.25 0.25 Glyceryl Caprylate wt % 1 1 1 1 1 1 (active) Glyceryl Stearatewt % (active) 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Safflower Oil wt % (active) 2 2 22 2 2 Sclerotium Gum wt % (active) 0.5 0.25 0.5 0.5 0.25 0.25 Perfume wt% (added) 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Distilled Water Q.S Q.S Q.S Q.SQ.S Q.S Adjust pH w Citric aicd, L-Arginine or Calcium Gluconate to pH =3.0-5.5 Brassicyl Valinate Esylate 1.14 1.14 1.14 1.14 1.22 1.52 wt %(active) Brassica Alcohol (C18-C22) 0.07 0.07 0.96 0.07 0.08 0.10 wt %(active) Total GN content (Brassicyl 0.0088 0.0088 0.0088 0.0088 0.01170.0146 Valinate Esylate + total FAOH molar) Molar ratio of Brassicyl 25to 75 25 to 75 25 to 75 25 to 75 20 to 80 20 to 80 Valinate Esylate tototal FAOH Molar ratio of short chain 60 to 40 60 to 40 53 to 47 75 to25 60 to 40 60 to 40 FAOH (C16) to long chain FAOH (C18-C22)

Examples 1 to 36 are inventive examples. The viscosity of Examples 1 to36 is consumer acceptable and ranges from 50 cps to 7000 cps. If theviscosity is too high it can be difficult for a consumer to apply theleaving on/in conditioner composition throughout their hair with theirhands.

The shear stress of Examples 1 to 36 is consumer acceptable and rangesfrom 20 Pa to 200 Pa. If the shear stress is too high it can bedifficult for a consumer to spread in their hands and on their hair.

The gel network d-spacing is from 15 nm to 45 nm for Examples 1-36. Thislevel of d-spacing indicates that the conditioner composition canprovide good conditioning feel and detangle hair strands well.

Examples 1-36 have a molar ratio of BVE to FAOH of greater than or equalto 10:90 and less than or equal to 50:50.

Examples 1-36 have a total gel network (GN) content, which is the sum ofBVE and fatty alcohol(s) (FAOH), of from about 0.004 molar to about 0.05molar.

Examples 1-36 may contain a preservative system comprising 0.1 wt % to1.5 wt % of the first preservative selected from the group consisting ofsodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, sodium salicylate, sodium chloride,sodium carbonate, sodium borate, sodium acetate, sodium citrate,potassium benzoate, potassium acetate, calcium gluconate, calciumchloride, and combinations thereof, and 0.1 wt % to 2 wt % of the secondpreservative of selected from the group consisting of glycerin ester(s)such as glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl undecylenateand/or glycol(s) such as pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol,1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, decylene glycol, and/or thecombinations thereof.

Examples 1-36 may contain from 0 to 1.5 wt % of a polymer as a thickenerto stabilize the composition. The polymer is a gum(s) selected from thegroup consisting of Sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, guar gum, locust beangum, tragacanth gum, acacia gum, agar gum, algin gum, gellan gum, carobgum, karaya gum biosacharide gum, calcium carrageenan, potassiumcarrageenan, sodium carrageenan, potassium alginate, ammonium alginate,calcium alginate and any combination thereof.

The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood asbeing strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Instead,unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean boththe recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding thatvalue. For example, a dimension disclosed as “40 mm” is intended to mean“about 40 mm.”

Every document cited herein, including any cross referenced or relatedpatent or application and any patent application or patent to which thisapplication claims priority or benefit thereof, is hereby incorporatedherein by reference in its entirety unless expressly excluded orotherwise limited. The citation of any document is not an admission thatit is prior art with respect to any invention disclosed or claimedherein or that it alone, or in any combination with any other referenceor references, teaches, suggests or discloses any such invention.Further, to the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in thisdocument conflicts with any meaning or definition of the same term in adocument incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assignedto that term in this document shall govern.

While particular embodiments of the present invention have beenillustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in theart that various other changes and modifications can be made withoutdeparting from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is thereforeintended to cover in the appended claims all such changes andmodifications that are within the scope of this invention.

What is claimed is:
 1. A leave on hair conditioner compositioncomprising: a. an aqueous carrier; b. from about 0.25 wt % to about 8 wt% of BVE; and c. from about 0.25 wt % to about 8 wt % of fattyalcohol(s); wherein the molar ratio of BVE to total fatty alcohol isfrom about 10:90 to about 50:50; wherein the composition comprises auniform Lβ gel network; wherein the composition comprises d-spacing offrom about 15 nm to about 45 nm, as measured according to the d-spacing(Lβ-basal spacing) of Lamella Gel Network Test Method; wherein thecomposition has a viscosity from about 50 cps to 7000 cps; and whereinthe composition has a shear stress from about 20 Pa to 200 Pa @ 950 1/s.2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the fatty alcohol is selectedfrom the group consisting of lauryl alcohol (C12), tridecyl alcohol(C13), myristyl alcohol (C14), pentadecyl alcohol (C15), cetyl alcohol(C16), isocetyl alcohol (C16), palmitoleyl alcohol (C16), heptadecylalcohol (C17), cetostearyl alcohol (C16-C18), cetearyl alcohol(C16-C18), and cetylstearyl alcohol (C16-C18). The composition of claim1, wherein the fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting ofstearyl alcohol (C18), isostearyl alcohol (C18), oleyl alcohol (C18),nonadecyl alcohol (C19), arachidyl alcohol (C20), heneicosyl alcohol(C21), behenyl alcohol (C22) erucyl alcohol (C22), lignoceryl alcohol(C24), ceryl alcohol (C26), Brassica alcohol (C18-C22), and combinationsthereof.
 3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the fatty alcohol isselected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, Brassica alcohol,stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and combinations thereof.
 4. Thecomposition of claim 1, wherein the gel network content is from about0.004 to about 0.05 molar.
 5. The composition of claim 1, wherein themolar ratio of BVE to total fatty alcohol is from about 10:90 to about50:50;
 6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the molar ratio of BVE tototal fatty alcohol is from about 13:87 to about 45:55;
 7. Thecomposition of claim 1, comprising a viscosity of from about 50 cps toabout 6500 cps.
 8. The composition of claim 1, comprising a shear stressof from about 30 Pa to about 180 Pa.
 9. The composition of claim 1,wherein the composition is substantially free of behentrimoniumchloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetrimonium chloride,stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, Brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and/orbehenamidopropyl dimethylamine.
 10. The composition of claim 1, whereinthe composition is substantially free of or free of quaternized ammoniumsalts.
 11. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition issubstantially free of or free of amidoamines.
 12. The composition ofclaim 1, wherein the composition is substantially free of an ingredientselected from the group consisting of silicone, propellants, phthalates,dyes, sulfates, formaldehyde donors, and combinations thereof.
 13. Thecomposition of claim 1, comprising a pH from about 2.5 to about 5.5, asmeasured according to the pH Test Method described herein.
 14. Thecomposition of claim 1, further comprising a preservative systemcomprising: i. from about 0.1 wt % to about 1.5 wt % of a firstpreservative; and ii. from about 0.2 wt % to about 2.0 wt % of a secondpreservative.
 15. The conditioner composition of claim 14, wherein theweight ratio of the first to the second preservative is from about 1:10to about 8:1.
 16. The composition of claim 14, wherein the firstpreservative is selected from the group consisting of sodium benzoate,potassium sorbate, sodium salicylate, sodium chloride, sodium carbonate,sodium borate, sodium acetate, sodium citrate, potassium benzoate,potassium acetate, calcium gluconate, calcium chloride, and combinationsthereof.
 17. The composition of claim 14, wherein the first preservativeis selected from the group consisting of sodium benzoate, potassiumsorbate, and mixtures thereof.
 18. The composition of claim 14, whereinthe second preservative comprises one or more glyceryl ester selectedfrom the group consisting of glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate,glyceryl undecylenate and mixtures thereof, and/or one or more glycolsselected from the group consisting of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol,hexylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, decylene glycol, andmixtures thereof, and/or the combinations of glyceryl esters and glycolsthereof.
 19. The composition of claim 14, wherein the secondpreservative ingredient comprises glyceryl esters selected from glycerylcaprylate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl undecylenate and mixtures thereof.20. The composition of claim 14, wherein the preservative systemcomprises from about 0.1% to about 0.8% of sodium benzoate or potassiumsorbate, by weight of the composition.
 21. The composition of claim 14,wherein the preservative system comprises from about 0.2% to about 1.5%of the second preservative composition, by weight of the composition.22. The composition of claim 14, wherein the level of microbes isundetectable at two days, as measured according to the Bacterial andFungal Microbial Susceptibility Test Methods.
 23. The composition ofclaim 14, wherein the preservative system is substantially free of apreservative ingredient selected from the group consisting ofethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and salts thereof, isothiazolinones,benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, cyclohexylglycerin, parabens, andcombinations thereof.
 24. The composition of claim 14, wherein thepreservative system comprises from about 0.35% to about 0.5% of thesecond preservative composition, by weight of the composition.
 25. Thecomposition of claim 14, wherein the preservative system comprises lessthan 1.5 wt % of a salt selected from the group consisting of sodiumbenzoate, potassium sorbate, sodium salicylate, sodium chloride, sodiumcarbonate, sodium borate, sodium acetate, sodium citrate, potassiumbenzoate, potassium acetate, calcium gluconate, calcium chloride, andcombinations thereof.